Soba

Zaru soba (cold soba, dipping sauce)

The simplest soba: noodles boiled, rubbed clean under cold water and chilled in ice water, then dipped into a cold soy–mirin–bonito sauce. A soba alternative to the rice-noodle stir-fries — for a hot day instead of the pad thai. The concentrated sauce keeps a month, so make it ahead.

4 servings~15 min + cooling the sauce
Zaru soba (cold soba, dipping sauce)

Mise en place — set out in the order it goes in

  1. Sake + mirin
    Sake + miringo in firstStep 1
  2. Soy sauce
    Soy sauceafter the boilStep 1
  3. Kombu + katsuobushi
    Kombu + katsuobushifor the sauceStep 2
  4. Soba
    Sobadried, 100 g per servingStep 4
  5. Iced water
    Iced waterfor chilling the noodlesStep 6
  6. Condiments
    Condiments
    • nori
    • green onions
    • wasabi
    Step 9

Prep order — what happens when, and what overlaps

minutes
0102030405060
Sake + mirin boil, soy in 2 min
Kombu + bonito, simmer 6 min
6 min
Cool and strain (ahead) 30 min
30 min
Water on, boil soba 12 min
12 min
Rinse, ice 30 s 3 min
Plate, dilute sauce 3 min
Condiments, serve 2 min
Pan / stoveHands-offBowl / counterBoard

Make the sauce ahead (it keeps a month) and the meal itself is about 15 minutes.

Step by step

  1. Boil the sake and mirin a few seconds, then add the soy sauce.
    Boil the sake and mirin a few seconds, then add the soy sauce.

    1Boil off the alcohol

    medium-high~1 min

    For this step

    • Sake60 ml (¼ cup)
    • Mirin120 ml (½ cup)
    • Soy sauce120 ml (½ cup)
    • Bring the sake and mirin to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
    • Boil a few seconds until the alcohol smell is gone, then add the soy sauce.
    Boil off the alcohol
    Should look like this
  2. Add the kombu and the bonito flakes.
    Add the kombu and the bonito flakes.

    2Kombu and bonito

    For this step

    • Kombu1 piece
    • Katsuobushi (bonito flakes)5–10 g

    Add the kombu and the katsuobushi — the bigger amount for a stronger bonito flavour.

    Kombu and bonito
    Should look like this
  3. Cool completely, then strain — it's a concentrate.
    Cool completely, then strain — it's a concentrate.

    3Simmer, cool, strain

    low5 min + cooling
    • Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
    • Turn off the heat and let it steep until it’s fully cool, then strain.
    • This is a concentrate — it gets diluted before serving.
    Simmer, cool, strain
    Should look like this
  4. No salt. Fan the soba in so the strands stay apart.
    No salt. Fan the soba in so the strands stay apart.
    Save 1–1½ cups of the cooking water (sobayu) before draining.
    Save 1–1½ cups of the cooking water (sobayu) before draining.

    4Boil the soba

    high~4–5 min

    For this step

    • Dried soba400 g (14 oz) — 100 g per serving
    • Bring a big pot of water to a boil — no salt.
    • Fan the soba in so the strands stay apart; stir now and then.
    • Cook for the packet time (usually 4–5 minutes), until just tender with a slight chew.
    • If it threatens to boil over, lower the heat — never add cold water.
    • Before draining, save 240–360 ml (1–1½ cups) of the cooking water (sobayu) for the end.
    Boil the soba
    Should look like this
  5. Rinse under cold running water, rubbing gently, until the water runs clear.
    Rinse under cold running water, rubbing gently, until the water runs clear.

    5Rinse

    ~1 min
    • Drain in a sieve and rinse under cold running water, rubbing gently with your hands until the water runs clear.
    • Don’t skip it — unrinsed soba clumps and turns slimy.
    Rinse
    Should look like this
  6. Into iced water for 30 seconds, then drain well.
    Into iced water for 30 seconds, then drain well.

    6Ice bath

    30 s

    Shake the sieve, tip the noodles into a big bowl of iced water for 30 seconds, then drain well.

    Ice bath
    Should look like this
  7. One serving on each mat, shredded nori on top.
    One serving on each mat, shredded nori on top.

    7Plate

    For this step

    • Shredded noria handful
    • Set the bamboo mats over plates to catch drips.
    • One serving of soba on each, shredded nori on top.
    Plate
    Should look like this
  8. Concentrate plus iced water, about 1 : 3 — taste and adjust.
    Concentrate plus iced water, about 1 : 3 — taste and adjust.

    8Dilute the dipping sauce

    For this step

    • Dipping sauce concentrate (above)90 ml (6 tbsp)
    • Iced water270 ml (1⅛ cups)
    • Mix the concentrate with the iced water — about 1 : 3.
    • Taste: more water if it’s too salty, more concentrate if it’s weak.
    • Pour into small cups, one each.
    Dilute the dipping sauce
    Should look like this
  9. Green onion and wasabi into the cup, then dip a mouthful of noodles.
    Green onion and wasabi into the cup, then dip a mouthful of noodles.

    9Condiments and serve

    For this step

    • Green onions2
    • Wasabioptional
    • Chop the green onions and put them on small plates with a dab of wasabi.
    • Dip a mouthful of noodles into the sauce, adding green onion and wasabi to the cup as you go.
    Condiments and serve
    Should look like this
  10. Pour the hot sobayu into the leftover sauce and drink it as a broth.
    Pour the hot sobayu into the leftover sauce and drink it as a broth.

    10Sobayu to finish

    After eating, pour the hot saved cooking water into what’s left of your dipping sauce and drink it as a light broth — the way soba shops finish the meal.

    Sobayu to finish
    Should look like this

Based on: Just One Cookbook — Zaru soba (cold soba with dipping sauce)